Saturday, May 14, 2011

Finis - or is this just the beginning?

Trying to tie up the loose ends from the experience of Tour du Rouge is like counting chickens in a barnyard.  HOLD STILL!

The Ride.
Its over.  Six days, 526 miles, Houston to New Orleans.  The headwinds of the first three days were challenging, but as Allen Bazard, our ride director promised, they just served to make us stronger later in the week.  The road surfaces in Louisiana were challenging at times.  Just as we suffer through pothole season in Northern Illinois, the roads in Southern Louisiana are subject to winds and water.  There appears to be little effort to pick up debris and roadkill alongside the road.  This adds to the challenge of riding on the shoulder of a four lane highway as sometimes was necessary to get from here to there in the area.  For you riders, we had 1,280 feet of elevation gain for the week.  For context for non-riders, I rode 48 miles from my home shortly before I left and saw 1,800 feet of gain.  And Illinois is flat, right?  Allen's best surprise, to him and to us was that the worst road on the ride, the five miles in and out to the lunch stop at St. Joseph Plantation on Thursday had just been repaved.  The surface was as smooth as a baby's bottom.

Without reservation, this was the best supported ride (of any length) I have every ridden.  Kudos to Dory Cayten, our tour director, and all the Red Cross staff, volunteers and local community leaders for all their work in making this ride such an enjoyable experience for everyone associated with the ride.

Southern Louisiana.
Before I left for Houston to begin the ride, I bought eight cd's of Zydeco, Cajun music and southern blues to get in the mood for the ride.  During the ride we were treated to local music including Waylon Thibadoux and his Cajun band in Morgan City.  My observations of local people indicated to me a people who love their music and way of life.  I overheard a man, older than me, explaining that the only reason he didn't go dancing every night was that there were two nights when no clubs were open.  Sort of reminds me of when as a taxi driver during student days in Boston the call would go out for a fare to the local church hosting bingo that evening.  The ladies would complain that there were nights when no church offered a bingo game.  Or bike riders who wonder why the ride is 'only' six days long.

Another aspect of the local culture we enjoyed was food.  From smoked sausage poo' boys at the Apache field office for lunch, to Cajun-spiced pork chops in Abbeville, to gumbo in Morgan City, bread pudding everywhere and Jambalaya at Audubon Park in New Orleans while massing for the parade finale we had a great sampling of local specialty fare.  Genuine and very tasty.

I have to say I was unprepared for the gentleness and openness of the local people.  So this is a loose end.  I am intrigued by the culture of the region.  I will be reading, listening and eating to expand my knowledge and experience.  I'm sure I will enjoy.

The Red Cross.
Saturday morning after the ride I was sitting in the coffee shop of the Hilton Riverside when Joyce, one of the volunteers who traveled with us all week was walking by.  I asked her to stop and chat.  On the tour, Joyce's job was to pilot the ERV (emergency response vehicle) at the end of the route, following the last rider to make sure no one was left behind or imperiled.  She also pick up the signs set out to mark the route.  Joyce lives in New Orleans and volunteers in crisis's.  One day she may be helping victims of a household fire with essentials like clothing, food and temporary shelter.  Another day may find her working at a shelter set up in a community center for flood victims.  As we talked her concern about the flood waters flowing down the Mississippi was clear.  The reason she volunteered to support the Tour du Rouge was simple.  The funds raised go primarily to disaster relief.  She wants the ride to continue to grow because the funds raised provide direct relief to disaster victims.    
I don't know if all of the volunteers and staff of the Red Cross have such generous hearts, but what I heard on the tour from talking with them indicates it would be hard to find one who doesn't.  I really feel good about having raised funding for the Red Cross and am positive it will be put to good use.  Overall the ride raised approximately $250,000 for the chapters in the Gulf Coast region.  I am proud to have been part of that effort.

Somehow I don't think the Red Cross is done with me, nor I with them.   It was a good bike ride.  It was a greatly gratifying experience.

The blog will continue.  Next up, the road trip home.  Please share your comments.  I love the feedback.  While the focus will continue to be impressions while cycling, there will be occasional forays into economics and Illinois politics.  Fair warning.

Saturday, May 7, 2011

Bittersweet

Friday's final day began in the usual way.  Rider's assembled, pumped tires, listened to the route description and warnings.  Some single day riders joined for the day.  Allen's "Are you ready to ride?" was met with a resounding "Yes!"  Dory sounded the air horn and we were off in a mass start.  The City of Gonzalez provided a police escort out of town complete with car traffic blockades and flashing lights.

For me the start was bittersweet.  While the day's ride promised a sense of accomplishment  and completion, I also knew the days of riding, eating cajun food and enjoying local music were coming to a close as well.   New friends would be scattered throughout the country with promises of photos by email and hopes of meeting at next year's ride.

An incredible sense of camaraderie among the riders and crew has developed over the past five days.  Its hard to understand the depth of shared experience that developed during the ride, but it is palpable.  The goodbye hugs and handshakes had already begun before we set off on the days ride.

The day's ride included more tailwind and more road debris than any previous day.  Our group of eight riders had three flats in the first 10 miles.   We rode  45 miles on the shoulders of  busy, debris filled roads past refineries, boodin and cracklin stands, sugar cane fields and crawfish farms before riding up on the Mississippi River levee for an incredible 22 mile ride filled with sweeping panaramic views and habitats of egrets, ducks, ibises and hawks.

That stretch dropped us off in Audobon park for a later than usual lunch.  Jambalaya.  We waited for all our riders to gather in the park and finish lunch.  Then we  huddled for more planning.  We filled jersey pockets with candy, mounted bikes and on the horn began an eight mile police escorted ride into New Orleans.  Motorcycle police blocked intersections, sounded sirens as the leapfrogged ahead covering each intersection all the way into the city, past the aquarium and into Waterfront Park along the Mississippi.  Onlookers along the way cheered, gave us  thumbs up and waited patiently as we passed by.  Then smiled as we threw candy in the traditional parade fashion.  This city appreciates a parade and is always, seemingly, ready to party.

I was skeptical about the need for an escorted parade, but it sure was a fun run in.  And it set a great tone for the evening's grand celebration dinner, entertainment and recognition.   The ride is multi-faceted, but at the end of the day, its about supporting the Red Cross's mission of helping people in need.  That we all celebrate.

Thursday, May 5, 2011

Homage au Peleton

The sport of cycling has adopted many terms and concepts as well from the French.   The peleton is unique to the sport of cycling, in racing the peleton both supports the rider and provides his competition.  Touring cyclists use the peleton as well, mostly cooperatively.

A peleton is a group of cyclists of similar abilities who ride together to provide mutual support and benefits.  The principle advantage of riding with the peleton is speed.  The lead rider or riders in the peleton deflect the wind, enabling the following riders to travel at the same speed using much less energy.  Each rider takes a turn at the front as the riders travel along the road.

In touring, the peleton provides the opportunity to share knowledge and techniques with other riders.  It is important for the riders to travel closely together to maximize the benefit of the draft effect.  The benefit is lost if there is too much separation between riders.  Keeping contact (in the draft benefit zone) with the rider in front is critical to the success of the peleton.  For a group that has been riding together it is good etiquette to support the other riders.  If a rider is struggling to keep pace, the group pace may be slowed to accomodate him.  He would also be excused from leading while experiencing his difficulty.
 
Stronger riders will lead for longer periods or more frequently to balance out the peleton.  The peleton usually travels at a "conversation pace" meaning the effort required of the following riders is such that they can carry on conversations.    Conversations are often about bikes and equipment, other rides (past and future), experiences on the bike and life experiences in general.

Today I learned a technique for keeping contact with the pack when in danger of losing contact.  A simple method that will save me a lot of effort on future rides.

When  I reflect on the day, we spent five and a half hours in the saddle over a nearly nine hour period, covered  ninety miles and finished much stronger and faster than if we had ridden alone.  There is much joy to be found in cycling, most of it is found in the peleton.

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Cajun Country

For the past two days we've been riding thru cajun country, south of I-10 between Lake Charles and Morgan City.  For me this was one of the big attractions of the Tour.  Although most of the day is spent riding, we have the opportunity to meet and chat with the local folks who are staffing the rest stops, and meal stops.  We've had the opportunity to hear cajun music both of the last two evenings before and during dinner.  Tonight we heard Waylon Thibodaux and his band.  A fiddle, accordian, washboard and vocals.  I don't typically catch the lyrics the first time I listen to any song, but its especially hard when the singers have cajun accents.  I do know I like the driving beat and the enthusiasm of the musicians and the audience.    The food servers were rockin' as they filled plates from the buffet.  When their work allowed, they paired off and danced.  These are a people who know how to have a good time.

Last night's dinner was served at the Abbeville Community center.   We enjoyed cajun-style pork chops (hot and spicy, of course), jambalaya, and some really excellent maple flavored bread pudding.  The meal was served by the youth volunteer club of the local Red Cross chapter.  Breakfast was  served at a multi-generational family caffe just down the road from our hotel.  A son of the caffe's founder gave a stiring rendition of a gospel song after breakfast, a capella.  Dinner tonight included gumbo,rice, beef, chicken, green beans and, of course, bread pudding.  A great meal.

I don't know how to express the grit and happiness of the local population.   In an area that is often devastated by hurricanes, floods and tornados, the people jump at the opportunity to provide hospitality and to share their culture.  Its genuine.  Its real.  And its heartwarming.

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

The Elements - Wind

On a tour like Tour du Rouge all riders get to deal with the elements.  In fact that's one attraction of the sport - being outside with the elements: wind, sun, humidity, rain, bugs, pollen, leaves, dogs, drivers, road conditions and on and on.  Rare is the ride that has all the elements in the right balance.

The last three days have been quite windy.  And since the wind has been predominately from the East and we're travelling fron West to East,  its been a challenge.  It slows speed significantly and gusts can throw you to the ground, literally, if you don't keep a firm hand on your handlebar.

The overnight rain left the pavement wet as we mustered for our 6:45 am rider meeting.  Because a long route was mapped out for the day we started early.  The wind was lighter than yesterday, but it was still early.  We rode out of Sulpher slowly, overcoming drowsiness and the muscle fatigue from yesterday's ride.  Too slowly for me.  The rider ahead had a very deliberate pace and the busy road required single file riding.  I passed and caught up with Paul from New Iberia.  We kept a pace that promised some progress on the day's mileage.  Paul let me know a paceline was coming behind us.  As it reached us, we picked up the pace and joined in the line.  The wind was picking up.  The paceline picked up speed and we were crusing.  We were riding thru a forested area which provided a wind block.  We rode over a bridge and into a rest stop.

The paceline reformed after a break but was much less effective because we began riding through fields, the wind break was gone.  The group we were riding with included several riders from the Major Taylor team, riders who often ride together and travel together on the tour.  One rider suggested forming an eschelon to counter the quartering headwind.  Most of our route was on roads heading due East and the wind was coming from the NE, hitting the riders on their front left shoulders.  We spread four abreast across on the right side of the two lane country road.  The leftmost rider caught the wind and each successive rider to the right rode slightly behind in the dead air where the wind had been broken by the lead rider.  Periodically the lead rider would rotate off the left, behind the eschelon to the right side and a fresh rider would be in place to push against the wind.

Its an elaborate scheme and it works.  Today the conditions were right for the eschelon to work well.  We had 3-4 eschelons on the right side of the road.  Following vehicle traffic simply drove around our formations.  When we would turn South and enjoy a brief tailwind, we'd pick up speed and ride in files.  Upon turning East, the eschelons would reform and the crusing would continue.

Did it matter?  Well, the winds were as strong today, and were rode further.  105 miles today, versus 92 yesterday and 90 on Sunday.  Yet my average speed rose nearly 10% over Sunday when my legs were much fresher.  Eschelon riding is difficult to execute, requiring the participation of the riders in the group and concentration by the riders riding in close proximity to riders on either side as well as ahead and behind.

Can this sport really be this much fun?  Can riders from different backgrounds come together and support each other?  It really is a beautiful thing to see an eschelon working.

My thanks to the riders of the Major Taylor team and the others in our pick-up team for making today's ride so successful and so memorable.

Monday, May 2, 2011

Up at dawn - a day on tour

In consideration of the day's weather forecast, today's ride started at 7:30.  Backing up from that, we had the rider meeting at 7:15, bags loaded at 7:00 and  breakfast at 6:00.  What sane group of people would start a day of 6-10 hours of bike riding with that schedule?

Howcome?  The winds are lighter and the temperatures are cooler earlier in the day.  On a long ride you don't want to run out of daylight.  Suppose a lightning storm comes up and forces you to take shelter.  If you start late, you could run out of daylight.  We do ride in the rain, right Emmett?  Emmett and I rode the two days of TOMRV in the rain a couple of years ago.  I rode it thru two days of rain last year.

So today we rode for five hours into the wind, stopped for lunch, turned tail on the wind and had an exhilerating two hour hammerfest.  Despite the fatigue from yesterday and the ride this morning, conditions were just right for me to hammer.   Some days you just feel it.   Four of us riders got into a groove and were riding 21, 22, 23 and 24 mph on the edge of LA 27 for the better part of 35 miles.  One stop for water and one for a drawbridge.  This stuff exhilerates me.  A man and his well tuned machine flying down the road.

How is this possible?  The Red Cross personnel and volunteers who staff this ride handle all the details and "stuff".  The riders simply "show up".  All the signage, maps, rest stops, sag support and mechanical support are provided by or arranged by Red Cross personnel and staff.  They are warm, friendly people who believe deeply in their cause.  This is one "fun" way they raise funds for disaster relief and the many other activities they carry out to help people in need.  Its easy to see the goodwill the Red Cross enjoys by the cooperation from the communities we pass thru.

Today there was a bridge on our route reduced to one lane at the top due to construction.  The Tour personnel arranged cooperation from three police jurisdictions and the contractor to shut down the road to allow all 73 riders and support vehicles (7-8 I'd guess) to cross the bridge as a convoy.  This is but /one example of the care taken on running this ride.

Each afternoon on arrival at the hotel, there are soft chairs, ice cream, beer, wine and soft drinks waiting for the riders.  You are handed a room key and your luggage is waiting in your room.  And to a person every crew member is cheerful and supportive.

So don't spend a lot of time concerned about me cranking out the miles.  I've got the best support team I could ever ask for.

And like that lucky old sun, I roll around heaven all day.

Sunday, May 1, 2011

The ride begins

The day begins with pomp and ceremony.  Riders gather at the start. Music plays.  There is a huge Red Cross inflatible arch like you'd see at the Tour de France.   The tour director thanks riders for their fundraising and volunteers for their work.  The ride director describes the route and implores the riders to ride safely.  The riders are getting restless.  A rider leads a prayer for safe travel.  The Star spangled Banner is played over the PA.  The riders cheer.  A lone rider yells: "Go Hawks!"  Horns sound and we're off in a mass start complete with a police escort thru the Houston airport and the adjoining neighborhood.  The police really like to accomodate the Red Cross.

When I walked out this morning it was 78 degrees and humid.  My third day in bike shorts all year.  The wind was in our faces out of the SSE all day.   Steady at 20-30 with gusts up to 40 mph.  Its a strong group.  Almost all of the riders finished the day on their own power.  The group is in good spirits.  The effects I think of shared experience and a noble cause.  As we ride along the route, local Red Cross volunteers set up rest stops.  They benefit from our fundraising and enjoy being part of the event.  we riders appreciate the refreshments.

Road kill.  Deer, opossums, snakes, raccoons, armadillo and alligator.  Something tells me Toto this isn't Kansas.

I'm worn out, as are all the riders and volunteers after a challenging day.   We'll all be back at it tomorrow morning.  Looking for SPF > 30 for tomorrow.