Plenty of aches to go around this morning. My arms and hands are particularly sore from
the climbing yesterday and from holding the handlebar and brakes on the big
downhill. We had an excellent breakfast
at the Ozy Wasy Hotel in Abancay. Today
was sunny and warm. We left Abancay on a
downhill run for the first 28 km. After
that we spent the day mystified by false summits and false downhills. A false summit occurs when the apparent
summit is not the summit, but turning a corner reveals a further climb to
pursue. A false downhill occurs when the
landscape says you’re heading downhill and your speed and cycle computer tell
you otherwise. We followed the
Chalhuanca River today but opposite the direction of flow. We are generally travelling west and the
river travels east. This is what gives
rise to the false downhills. We climbed
3,700 feet today, but net of the initial downhill we rose only to 8,500 feet.
We travelled the river valley all day. This is an arid region with a little
agriculture and very sparsely populated.
Often today I found myself alone on the road, no traffic in either
direction. The traffic we do see is
mainly of three types: delivery and supply trucks, long distance busses and
local taxis that pick up local people along the roadside. No phones, so travelers go to the side of the
road and flag down a taxi. Since there
are few private cars, the taxis are often full, leaving would-be customers for
the next driver.
Some of the great adventures of this trip involve
eating. Today, the spot scouted out for
of lunch in the planning of this tour was closed. The guides went a little further down the
road and found a great restaurant which featured trout. I had Saulta Trucha which was trout sautéed
in garlic, onions and tomatoes. It was
delicious. You can see from the photo
below the setting of the restaurant was idyllic. The owner farms his own trout, so literally
our lunch was caught the same day, prepared and served. All for 15 soles (about $6).
After lunch and a short ride to the end of the day, we
arrived at our resort destination.
Deluxe, even without comparison to some of our more Spartan
lodgings.
Lunch stop along the road, romantic, eh? |
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